Tuesday, February 24, 2009

The Jacket Is Done

First, let me say that this is the best fitting jacket I've ever owned. Ever! There is enough ease for me to wear a sweater underneath, yet it doesn't feel too big with only a simple knit top underneath. No drag lines anywhere, the sleeves are the perfect length, I love the color, and it's really, really warm. Remember what the original jacket looked like?


While mine looks nothing like the original, I still think it looks pretty darn good. The changes I made include: changing the sleeves to a two piece long sleeve taken from Simplicity 3672, size 20 and with the petite-able alterations. I changed the front dart to an armhole princess seam. I removed the front side under bust seam. I added a pocket to the front side panel. Then I added lots of contrast running stitches to make the design details obvious using pearl cotton thread.

While not as feminine as the original, it did turn out like I wanted it to. I was looking for a sport coat I could wear on the plane and kicking around NY City in March.


Because this pattern started out as a petite half-size pattern, I did very few alterations. That's very rare for me. No FBA, no petite alterations, no rounded back alterations. It did take me 3-1/2 muslins, but now I have the perfect fitting jacket pattern. Be still my heart.


The back fit looks just as good as the front fit does. While it doesn't look like it, the sleeve seam and the back princess seam do indeed line up. Just look at that smooth fit over my rounded hips, will you? I'm sure the shoulder pads are helping a bit here.

If you know anything about me, than you probably know that I hate hand stitching. For this garment, I had to "just get over it." And I did. I love the way the stitches make the seams and collar pop. My buttons match nicely and I'm pretty pleased with the sleeves too.


After my last muslin, I saw that the sleeve cap needed just a tiny bit of height. I then removed the height for the sleeve lining, which turned out to be the perfect thing to do. Except that then the sleeve wound up with these really ugly gathers on the back.

I had convinced myself that I could live with them since I plan on not being able to wear this jacket more than one season because I'm trying to lose weight. So off to bed I went. I must have been dreaming about those sleeves all night, because in the morning I had decided that off they must go to be fixed. It wasn't easy either, as I already had the lining sewn in and the sleeve hem sewn to the lining. I had to remove most of the shoulder pad and the sleeve header, but it was worth it as the gathers are much better. Not completely gone, but much better.

What I learned from sewing this jacket:

1. I must sew up any Burda Plus half size pattern I can get my hands on.
2. It's not me that has to have things perfect, it's my subconscious. I can't be held accountable, can I?
3. Always check to make sure the hem hangs evenly after every alteration. The front tilts up some because of the fabric I had to remove from under the bust.
4. I now know why the front facing should be narrower than the center front panel. The hem was very bulky at the princess seam since there was so many layers of interfaced fabric that met at that intersection, including the pocket. If I had traced out the facing and used that piece instead of making the front facing the full princess panel width, it wouldn't have been so bulky.
4. It is a good idea to cut the under collar on the bias. I got that one right, yea!
5. I need more practice on notched collars. The points are very flat and bulk free, however, the inside notch has more bulk than I care for.
6. I need to make more jackets!

22 comments:

  1. Wow! Great job, Sherril! That jacket fit is amazing! I love reading your detailed explanations of your decision-making and all about the things you've learned.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Your jacket is awesome. Good job.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Wow! It fits you quite well. It seems that you've totally redesigned it, too.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Wow! Great fitting jacket, Sherril! Well worth 3+ muslins.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Congrats on your new jacket. It looks good on you.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Beautiful jacket! The topstitching is a great detail!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Wow! You knocked this one out of the ballpark! You now have a TNT to do amazing things with. Congratulations!

    ReplyDelete
  8. I love the jacket, it looks so good on you. I know I need a TNT jacket pattern. You've encouraged me to work on my jacket pattern. Good work, well worth your efforts. As Carolyn says you have a TNT jacket to work with and make so many different versions.
    Joyce in NC

    ReplyDelete
  9. Beautiful jacket! Awesome fit! All your thought and hard work paid off - Congratulations (and you look beautiful in it!)

    ReplyDelete
  10. what an absolutely fabulous jacket! Enjoy wearing it every chance you get.
    Lois

    ReplyDelete
  11. That is a perfect fit! I love the hand stitching.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Thanks for stopping by my blog. Loving your jacket great job on that.:) COOL.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Lovely! And such a great fit! The contrast stitching is just perfect for it.

    I'm of the thought that ripping out a poorly set sleeve is always the right thing to do. Clearly it was a million percent worth the effort on this jacket given how it's so pretty and practical that it's going to be a staple in your wardrobe!!

    ReplyDelete
  14. You did an awesome job with the fit, Sherril. I particularly like the hand topstitching; very slimming. The overall jacket is very flattering. Well done!

    ReplyDelete
  15. WOW! I love it! You look great in it.You would never know that you don't like hand stitching ,by looking at that beautiful topstitching.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Lovely! Give yourself a big pat on the back for such good work!

    ReplyDelete
  17. The fit is amazing. I love the way the princess seams are perfectly placed and the upper chest fabric just skims the body. It's very becoming, too. Congratulations!

    ReplyDelete
  18. Wow! Your jacket is fantastic. I envy you for the great fit you have achieved.

    ReplyDelete
  19. congratulations on this great fitting jacket!! Yes, now that you have a pattern, go ahead and sew up several! This is too good an opportunity to let it slip.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Wow, all of your hard work and attention to detail certainly paid off. What a great life lesson! I want to try harder the next time because you did. Amazing jacket!

    ReplyDelete
  21. Sherill - I heard about your awesome jacket through the grapevine. I guess I need to visit PR more often! *LOL* However, this is fabulous on you! You have achieved a well-fitted, fashionable and beautiful jacket! Bravo!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  22. Wow, what a flattering and professional looking jacket! You've done an amazing job on it!!

    tg33

    ReplyDelete

Thank you for visiting my blog. I would love to hear what you have to say so please leave me a comment.