Monday, May 23, 2011

StyleArc's Lily Ski Pants Fit, Mostly.

Warning, horrifying fit photos to follow. Sometimes you've got to show your panties in order to help a fellow sewer with her fit. So I hope these pics don't scare you off and if I've offended you, I'm sorry. My goal is to help you, not terrorize you. (Sorry about the mirror shots, but you get the idea.)


Before cutting these out, I laid them on top of the legging pattern I made from Style Arc to see if I needed to do any alterations. They looked like they would need some length, but I wasn't sure how much would be needed. After cutting out and sewing up the muslin in a fabric with the same stretch as my final stretch denim, I got a much better idea on how much more length I would need. The center front looked good because a 1-3/4" waistband was going to be added to the top. The sides, however, needed about 1-1/2" longer to come up to my waist. Don't forget that I'm only 5'1" tall so that's a lot. These aren't sold as being low waisted, but trust me, they are!


I already know that my center back is a whole lot higher up than my center front so before I cut the muslin I added 1" to the center back on the yoke only. Obviously it wasn't enough. I wound up also adding 1-1/2" to the top of the pants in the back and kept the 1" in the center back on the yoke as well.


Because of my high full rounded back hip, I rounded up what I added to the back over my cheeks. This sort of gives me a princess seam over my high hip. Did you think the yoke was only for looks? No! It's a great place to add more fabric for those love handles. :D


My pattern alterations were a success. See how they come all the way up to my waist on the front and sides? I'm thinking that if I used the recommended fabric of a 4-way stretch knit, I wouldn't have had so much trouble getting them up to my waist. I might have added some, but not as much as I did. However, this pattern looks more like a jegging, which is why I sewed them up in a very stretchy denim. Obviously I omitted the fake zipper pockets the pattern has you add. The last thing I need is attention on my belly with pockets that don't work anyway.


With my alterations, the pants now come up to my waist in the back. However, there are still problems. Specifically, all the wrinkles under my cheeks. I'm not sure what's going on here. It apparent that the back leg has too much circumference, but I think there is also too much length. I don't mind the circumference so much, but I think I'm going to play with these to see how I might address the issue in my next pair. The problem might just go away if I make them in a less stretchy fabric. This pair feels a tiny bit too large everywhere. Maybe if I just use larger seam allowances. I'll have to experiment.


You can see the length issues in this side view. (Please ignore the giant belly that returned after my MIL died. It will be going very soon, I hope!) Lots of drag lines pointing to the back of my leg and the baggy knee tell me that there is too much length in the leg. Any suggestions on how to get rid of this problem? I have some ideas, but since I'm going back on my low carb diet, these pants fit fine for the moment.

I even plan on wearing them out of the house once I put on some make-up and brush my hair.

16 comments:

  1. "I even plan on wearing them out of the house once I put on some make-up and brush my hair." And you'll look better than 99% of the people in the grocery store. They are coming along fine. I'm especially interested in how you handle the excess ease in back of the thigh (Everybody wears their pants too long. We're used to that as being good fit.) It's a problem I have and I do hope you share your solution step by step.

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  2. Sherril you are HILARIOUS!!! I think these turned out great! The fit is perfect and I agree with sdBev that majority of people in the grocery store need some help from you!!! Great job! I love all the fabrics behind you...wish I had half of that!!

    Also, thanks for stopping by my blog and leaving such nice comments!

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  3. These look great on you. You did a wonderful job fitting them.

    Peggy at Silhouette patterns did a couple webcasts on pant fitting. She does go into some of the issues you speak of.

    There are webcasts for pant fitting on Dec 27 & Feb 21.
    The Yoga Pants webcast on May 9 may also have some very good pant fitting information, not only for yoga pants.
    Thought these might help :))

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  4. oops the link is ~

    http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/index_replays.htm

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  5. Thanks for the review of these pants. They look great & I'm looking forward to seeing the next version. We have a very similar shape, especially in the rear! So I'm hoping that whatever works for you, will work for me too!!

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  6. Nice fit! It is so helpful to see other sewists work these things out.

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  7. I am also looking forward to your back fit solution. Thanks for sharing.

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  8. I'm very interested in StyleArc. I'm glad you're posting your experiences. You were able to get a good fitting pair of pants.

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  9. I found it very interesting to see how to make these changes - thank you for sharing!

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  10. Have you ever made Coni Crawford pants? I use her patterns for all my clients from size 0 to 30 and the backs always hang perfect and the side seams always hang straight. Her patterns for the larger woman has a deeper crotch and the center back comes up higher than most, perfect for sitting down and not showing your undies.It may be worth a try! I applaud your determination and humor...you go girl!

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  11. I think Burda is always going to be my go-to for pants...they fit! It's amazing how little fitting I need for my bulky body in their pants. Best CC of all for me, and I think you are good in Burda? Your pants look great on you, and as the poster above said...you will look so much better than so many in that store!! HAHAHHAA...oh yea...those jammy-wearing-flip-flop-floppin'-bad-hair people.....;)

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  12. I like these pants (and the stash in the background!) It looks like a good basic piece. All the good StyleArc reviews inspired me to order from them this morning (Whatsername's Cargo Pant). Nervous about the non-multi-size pattern tho. Since I'm usually between sizes.
    Sorry to hear about your MIL. Take care ((hugs))

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  13. smart fit alterations! What a great way to make these work for your body. If you want to try to get rid of those wrinkles beneath the cheeks, it might help to scoop out the crotch a little. Even though you reduce total amount of fabric that way, you get a little more space where it counts.

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  14. Thanks for the review of these great pants.

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  15. What has helped me with this fitting problem is to take a horizontal tuck across from the CB to nothing at the side seams (wherever the tuck works best for you from the waist down)which helps reduce length from the legs. Because this also reduces the back crotch length I need to pin a lower back crotch to compensate. In my case I also pinch in the CB seam a bit and this makes the back of a pant look better again in my case.

    Really, I think your pants look terrific!

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  16. This was awesome! Thank yu for having this amazing blog!

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